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- Pot vs trimmer
- Charging scooters
- Dave is getting a heat pump based water heater and will make a video about it soon
- Intel is taking a bunch of money for the US gov’t but also…laying off people
- Chip companies losing tribal knowledge when they outsource
- Dave asked on his forum and on a recent video about whether an $800 scope (MSO5000)
- Unlock the oscilloscope
- Best side cutters video
- Storing cables in the lab
- A (Google) list of electronics conferences in Australia
- Check out the badge for the upcoming Hackaday Supercon
- Chris will be giving a couple of talks in the next few weeks
- All Things Open in Raleigh on November 1st
- There will also be an open Demo Night from 5 – 8 pm hosted by RIoT
- Hackaday Supercon on November 6th
- All Things Open in Raleigh on November 1st
SeanB says
Heat pump the dirty little secret you are never told is that you really do not want to set the temperature above 65C, as the refrigerant starts to degrade above around 70C , and the high pressure required out of the compressor, to get the high temperature in the hot gas, also degrades the compressor valves and long term kills it. Seen plenty of people who bought them early, hoping to make a saving on electric bill,s having to replace them within 5 years, because they are installed set to 80C plus, and the compressor fails within 5 years. Compressor with a 5 year warranty, but the failure is the refrigerant, or the POE oils used in the system, breaks down and corrodes through the piping, causing a refrigerant leak in the condenser in the hot water tank, and then the water gets in the refrigerant circuit, destroying the entire system.
Best to add extra insulation, and make sure the water pipes into and out the tank is insulated at least for the first 2m, though going all the way to the hot water taps also helps, avoiding the big temperature drop on the pipes losing that expensive hot water.
By me gas is taking a big part of the water heating, more due to it being something that works so long as your gas is full in the cylinder, as there is really no piped gas supply around, and it is not affected by the rotational load shedding. But I still use electric heating, because I long ago insulated the cylinder with a lot more insulation, and same for the pipes to and from, so I have hot water for at least 2 days, without turning it on, though it is on a timer that only turns on for 30 minutes a day to provide input energy. efficiency and minimising heat losses are important.